History of 90s British Fashion

How music, football, and subcultures shaped what we wore

If you came of age in the UK during the 1990s, fashion wasn’t just about trends, it was about belonging. The clothes you wore said what you listened to, where you went out, who you kicked about with. And unlike the catwalk-led trends you see today, 90s British fashion was born on the street, in clubs, in pubs, on terraces, in back lanes and record shops.

This is a deep dive into the history of 90s British fashion, the cuts, the cultures, and the chaos that made it all what it was.

1. Britpop and the Rise of the Lad Look

When Oasis blew up in 1994, British fashion changed overnight. Out went the baggy ravewear and in came parkas, Adidas trainers, mod haircuts, and that casual-but-hard swagger. Liam Gallagher was the style reference for a generation, the parka became a staple, worn over zip-up track jackets or vintage Fred Perry polos.

This was the lad look, and it came with attitude. Think:

• Longline fishtail parkas

• Narrow-leg jeans or Adidas track pants

• Gazelles, Sambas or classic Reeboks

• Bucket hats, football tops, cagoules

It wasn’t polished, and that was the point. It was working class, no-nonsense, music-first fashion.

2. Terrace Wear and the Casual Scene

Before Britpop, there were the Casuals, football lads in Italian sportswear, Stone Island jackets, CP Company goggles, and Sergio Tacchini track tops. By the 90s, terrace wear had gone mainstream, blending into the broader fashion landscape.

This was about sharp silhouettes, designer sportswear, and having the most rare piece in the pub. It was clean, it was expensive (if you could afford it), and it was loaded with code, not just style, but status.

Even brands like Burberry and Aquascutum, usually associated with the upper classes, got co-opted by the terraces. That mix of working-class grit and high-end fashion was pure 90s Britain.

3. Rave Culture and Baggy Everything

While the lads were in Adidas, the ravers were glowing in the dark. The early 90s rave scene was a riot of colour and chaos, smiley face tees, baggy jeans, oversized hoodies, and the occasional pair of wraparound rave shades.

If you were deep into club culture, think The Haçienda, Cream, Ministry of Sound, you might’ve worn:

• UFO parachute trousers

• Neon windbreakers

• Kangol hats

• Glow-in-the-dark accessories

• Reebok Classics, Nike Air Max 90s

This was about movement. About sweat. About staying out until sunrise. It wasn’t fashion for the photos, it was fashion for the night.

4. Girl Power, Crop Tops & Kickers

The Spice Girls took over in ‘96, and suddenly platform trainers, mini backpacks, crop tops, and Kickers boots were everywhere. British girls in the 90s mixed grunge, clubwear, sportswear and school uniform vibes, it was nothing if not eclectic.

Brands like Morgan, Miss Sixty, Tammy Girl and Kookai ruled the high street. You had girls in:

• Strappy vest tops and Adidas poppers

• Denim skirts with chunky belt buckles

• Glittery lip gloss and butterfly clips

• Tie-front cardigans and platform shoes

It was loud, confident, and totally unbothered. You didn’t ask if it matched, you just wore it because you loved it.

5. The Brands That Defined a Decade

You couldn’t move in the 90s without seeing these labels, either on your mates or in the adverts stuck up in HMV:

• Ben Sherman – button-downs, bombers, Britpop energy

• Fila & Ellesse – sportswear worn from track to club

• Stone Island / CP Company – terrace gold, always a statement

• Reebok / Adidas / Nike – trainers were status symbols

• Kickwear / UFO / Spliffy – for the skaters and stoners

• Levi’s 501s – essential, worn loose, faded or ripped

• Burberry check – classy or chavvy, depending on how you wore it

These weren’t just brands, they were identity badges. They told people who you were without saying a word.

6. TV, Film and Music: The Real Influencers

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Back then, we didn’t have influencers, we had Channel 4, Top of the Pops, and the front row at Glasto. Shows like This Life, Spaced, and Skins later picked up where the 90s left off, but nothing hit harder than the likes of:

• Trainspotting (1996) – Track jackets, shaved heads, skinny jeans, and attitude

• The Football Factory / ID / Human Traffic – the lads’ uniform

• Top of the Pops appearances – whether it was Blur in Fred Perry or Tricky in a puffa coat

Music wasn’t separate from fashion — it was fashion. The band you loved dressed how you wanted to. The club you went to dictated your outfit. There was no separation.

Why 90s British Fashion Still Hits Today

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The 90s never really went away. Look around and you’ll see:

• Vintage Adidas everywhere

• Bucket hats back in full swing

• Baggy jeans, oversized hoodies

• Parkas making a comeback in the city and on the terraces

There’s a reason brands are still re-releasing their 90s collections. Because that era had soul. It was raw, personal, and built on real subcultures, not algorithms.

At Underground & Sound, we take that history seriously. Every tee we print, every shape we cut, every tone we pick, it’s all rooted in what made 90s British fashion real.